Semur, Aslinya dari Belanda

By 16 Nov 2016, 02:17:45 WIBKuliner

Semur, Aslinya dari Belanda

Keterangan Gambar :


Jangan merasa tidak terima jika dikatakan bahwa semur adalah hidangan Belanda. Sebab, di balik semur memang ada riwayat nusantara, bukti bagaimana silang budaya terjadi antara Indonesia dan Eropa, demikian menurut ahli kajian budaya Dr phil Lily Tjahjandari.

Percaya tidak, Indonesia ternyata sudah meramu berbagai makanan dengan berbagai jenis rempah sejak abad pertama. Hal ini terjadi karena posisi Indonesia terletak di tengah jalur perdagangan dunia.

Kekayaan rempah Indonesia ini lalu mengundang berbagai bangsa untuk datang dan mengeksplorasi citarasa rempah. Diawali dengan kedatangan pedagang India pada abad 1-7, dan diikuti oleh pedagang China dan Arab. Perdagangan rempah kemudian membuka jalan ekspansi masif bangsa Eropa pada abad 16-19. Mereka menjelajah wilayah Indonesia untuk menemukan rempah-rempah, dan memulai terjadinya interaksi budaya kuliner antara Eropa dan Indonesia.

"Sebelumnya, penguat rasa makanan Eropa hanya terbatas pada tomat, ceri, bawang bombai, madu, atau wine," ungkap Lily, yang juga Manajer Penelitian dan Pengabdian Masyarakat Fakultas Ilmu Pengetahuan Budaya Universitas Indonesia. Orang Eropa lalu mendapatkan inspirasi untuk menggunakan berbagai rempah Asia untuk mengolah makanan Eropa.

Nah, ketika keahlian meramu bumbu khas Indonesia seperti lada, kayu manis, jahe, kemiri, cengkeh itu berpadu dengan teknik memasak bangsa Eropa, hadirlah hidangan unik seperti semur. Semur sendiri asalnya dari bahasa Belanda, smoor, yang artinya masakan daging yang direbus dengan tomat dan bawang secara perlahan.

"Ketika itu, orang Eropa yang bisa memasak dengan rempah-rempah dianggap sebagai kalangan aristokrat. Hidangan semur ini diterima dengan baik oleh lidah kaum priyayi Belanda, dan menjadi menu rijsttafel," kata Lily, saat talkshow bertema "Semur, Turun-Temurun Menghangatkan Hati Keluarga Indonesia" di Restoran Warung Daun, Kebayoran Baru, Jakarta Selatan, beberapa waktu lalu.

Rijstaffel merupakan konsep penyajian makanan lengkap ala restoran di Eropa, yang diawali dengan hidangan pembuka, hidangan utama, dan hidangan penutup. Namun hidangan yang disajikan bukan hidangan Eropa, melainkan menu Indonesia dimana nasi sebagai makanan utama dinikmati dengan lauk-pauk.

Sebenarnya, semur itu sendiri bukan makanan asli Belanda. Semur, menurut pakar kuliner Chef Ragil Imam Wibowo, merupakan persepsi bangsa Indonesia dari hidangan tradisional Belanda yang bernama hachee. Hachee merupakan hidangan daging rebus yang dipotong-potong, kadang-kadang juga menggunakan ikan, burung, dan sayuran. Bumbu dasarnya adalah bawang dan rasa asam (biasanya didapat dari cuka atau wine). Cengkeh dan daun salam lalu ditambahkan ke dalam kuah kaldunya yang kental.

Hachee kelak menjadi trigger untuk hidangan semur. Dalam versi Indonesia, semur ini menggunakan bumbu bawang merah, bawang putih, dengan tambahan berbagai rempah lain untuk menguatkan rasa, seperti ketumbar, pala, lada, cengkeh, dan kayu manis. Semur lalu menjadi istimewa karena menggunakan kecap sebagai penguat rasa manis yang legit, dan memberi warna coklat yang menggugah selera.

"Kecap itu idenya ketika orang Indonesia berimajinasi bagaimana membuat warna coklatnya. Pada hachee, warna coklat didapat dari brownstock, yaitu kaldu dari tulang sapi yang dibakar. Orang Indonesia lalu mencari, apa yang kira-kira bisa memberi warna dan rasa yang diinginkan," ujar Chef Ragil dalam acara yang sama.

Semur kemudian melekat menjadi tradisi bangsa Indonesia., dan menjadi menu favorit setiap keluarga Indonesia. Menu ini hadir dengan inovasi bumbu dan topping yang beraneka ragam. Jika awalnya semur identik dengan daging sapi, Anda bisa menemukan semur daging kambing, ayam, telur, tahu, tempe, terong, dan bahkan ikan. Dan semuanya lezat!




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